''If there is a heaven on earth, it is here, it
is here, it is here,'' exclaimed Emperor Jahangir when
he saw Kashmir, and Swetha Amit agrees
wholeheartedly
What was once a humble shepherds' village is now converted
into India's most scenic tourist spot. The mesmerising
beauty of this place is what beckons Indian filmmakers.
One can never feel bored here as time seems to fly just
gazing at the exotic beauty of the streams and mountains.
We drove down from Gulmarg to Pahalgam, on the way stopping
at three must-visit places.
Ruins of an ancient temple: We first
halted at the Avantipur temple ruins. This was built
by King Avantivarman in the 9th century. It is well
known for two huge shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva and
Lord Vishnu. A guide showed us around and told us its
fascinating history. The well-maintained gardens and
ruins possessed a mysterious charm and we could see
the past engraved on the walls. We were told that the
Pandavas took refuge here during their exile. After
capturing its beauty on camera, we continued on our
drive.
Howzzat: Kashmir is known for its
cricket bats which are exported globally. We stopped
at a shop which exhibited a wide range of fine-quality
bats at prices between Rs800-Rs1,000 and purchased one.
Ready for the rapids: The Lidder river,
a favourite of rafters, gushed below. The adventurous
streak in us exhibited itself as we stopped to indulge
in some rafting. The two of us geared up and set off
in a boat meant for six, following the instructions
given by our guide. It was a thrilling ride and our
breath froze as icy water splashed on us.
Tryst
with horses, sheep and mountain goats: We spotted
quaint cottages high up the mountains, which were rented
out. The lives of local folk revolved around their horses,
sheep and goats. The animals were left loose to graze.
It was amusing to see the flock of sheep huddle into
a big ball of wool, and the stoic mountain goats stare
at us haughtily. At 10,000 feet, the sturdy creatures
were more hairy than their lowland brethren.
Once upon a time there was a lake:
Our next stop was Tulian lake, which was frozen for
most of the year. Surrounded by mountains, it was just
a patch of ice. We walked around for a while enjoying
the scenery.
Himalayas
instead of the Alps: We soon reached the abode
of pine trees, carpets of green with the ranges of snow
peaks in the background. We were at a loss for words
as we stared at the picturesque view. Called the Baisaran
Valley, one is bound to forget even Switzerland on seeing
this spot. Replace the Alps with the mighty Himalayas;
Kashmir would put its European counterpart to shame.
We headed towards a waterfall in the Sheshnag river
that flows down from Amarnath. It was a steep climb
down.
Gateway to the Amarnath Yatra:
We rented a Sumo for a ride to Chandanwari. There were
numerous shops bustling with people and activity. Horses
were available for the Amarnath Yatra which
had commenced. Carrying luggage and people, ponies trotted
up the rocky pathway effortlessly. Dipping our fingers
in the Sheshnag River, we vowed to do the yatra
the next year.
Betaabwadi: A site where numerous films
have been shot, this valley is very aptly named after
the movie 'Betaab', a major part of which was filmed
here. We bumped into kids carrying furry white rabbits
and lambs, which made for good photographs.
A walk to remember: The Aru valley
is another scenic spot worth a visit. It was a short
but fun-filled trek up the rocky pathway surrounded
by nature at its best with wild horses grazing peacefully
in green meadows.
Kashmir was the Mughals' favourite summer resort; now
it is the most sought- after destination for film shootings
and India's most beautiful tourist spot. Peace prevails
in the paradise as it hopes to gain back its glorious
days again. The snowy peaks of the Himalayas, pristine
streams and green meadows beckon tourists. Life would
be incomplete without a visit to this magnificent 'heaven
on earth.'
How to get to Pahalgam
By road: Pahalgam is 96km from Srinagar
and well connected by road. Buses and taxis are available
from Srinagar.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Pahalgam would be between the
months of March-September.
Things to do
- River rafting in the Lidder river is a highly recommended
activity. One needs to take a change of clothes.
- One can also opt for horse riding for excursions
and sightseeing around the valley.
- Pahalgam is a fine destination for trekking. Some
famous routes are: Pahalgam-Chandanwari-Sheshnag-Panchtarni-Amarnath
cave temple-Sonmarg. The other option being Pahalgam-Chandanwari-Sheshnag-Rangamarg-Humpet-Kanital-Lonivilad-Panikhar-Kargil.
Cost
- The cost for a two-night stay in Pahalgam would
be anywhere between Rs3,000-4,000 per person.
- Hiring an entire boat for the two of us cost us
around Rs1,500. However it could work out to be more
economical.
- Horse riding up to Tulian lake and other places
would cost around Rs1,200 per person.
- Lastly, hiring a local vehicle to visit Chandanwari,
Betaabwadi and Aru valley would come to Rs1,500 per
vehicle.
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