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Three-storey-high Buddha statues, stupas and monasteries
that look like they have been cut out from fairytale
books and yaks with floor-sweeping hair are some of
the unusual sights you see when you visit Ladakh,
says Swetha Amit
We had an early start as we had a long drive up the
mountains ahead of us. It was a sunny day.
We noticed something unusual; the mountains seemed to
change colour as we drove along. As we climbed the steep
passes, we realised how difficult it would be for bikers
who were passionate about exploring these steep mountain
paths. Approximately four hours later, we reached
the Khardungla Pass.
On top of the world: A cold gust of
wind greeted us as we got out of our vehicles. It was
about 18,380 feet above sea level. We were on the highest
motorable road in the world. The signboard was
decorated by little flags which symbolised the Buddhist
culture. We were awed by the magnificent view. All around
us were snow-capped mountains, which looked even more
beautiful in the bright sunlight. It was fascinating
to see the interplay between sun and snow. We
walked around a bit, drinking in the 'on top of the
world' feeling. Nearby was a small temple dedicated
to Lord Shiva. Tea stalls serving hot beverages, biscuits
and Maggi were comforting in the cold weather. We met
a few bikers who were exhilarated after a wonderful
ride from Kargil.
 Bon
appetite: After a couple of hours, we stopped
for lunch at a small place tucked away in the mountains.
Run by the Ladakhis, they served piping hot momos
- a famous Tibetan dish made out of corn flour, steamed
vegetables and meat. This is a local delicacy which
is eaten as the main course. They served Maggi and Tibetan
soup which were very welcome in the cold, making us
realise that it was the simplest things in life that
gave us the greatest pleasure.
Mountains, sand dunes and streams: As we descended
from the pass, the beautiful Karakorum Range came into
view. The Khardung village fields were lush with crops.
Further ahead, the stunning view of the Shyok Valley
soon gave way to a glimpse of the Shyok River. When
water levels are low, the river appears like small streams
that run parallel to one another. The banks were covered
with dense bushes offering us tantalising glimpses of
the river. We drove past the Diskit Gompa which we were
scheduled to visit the next day. We passed several other
villages, and were soon rewarded with a spectacular
view of sand dunes. It was fascinating to see sand dunes,
mountains and streams together.
 A
bumper ride on the double humps: As we walked
amidst the dunes, the silence was disturbed by the sound
of bells. Turning around, our jaws dropped in amazement.
A herd of Bactrian double-humped camels were trotting
towards us. The camels had a double hump, were shorter
in structure and had broader legs than regular camels,
and had abundant hair on the neck and knees. We mounted
the camels and were taken around for an hour. We soon
got into an animated conversation with our camel tender
who said that these species were exclusive to Ladakh.
After the ride, we walked to our camps.
In nature's lap: Strolling down a
pebbled pathway we were pleasantly surprised to see
bright white tents, one of which was reserved for us.
The secluded tent overlooked a garden of fresh vegetables
and sunflowers. The entire place was well maintained.
Meals were cooked with vegetables plucked off the camp
vegetable garden.
It was around five in the evening and the chill set
in. Grabbing our jackets, we decided to take a stroll
around the village escorted by a guide. We learnt that
the India-Pakistan border was about 70km away and that
there was an army base camp in the vicinity. We were
told about the numerous trekking trails, which would
require a minimum of three days. The village appeared
deserted. However, the main road found us in the company
of a few school children returning home. They were sweet
enough to oblige us with a few photographs. It was getting
dark and we headed back to our camp. Our cosy tents
were well equipped with warm beds and attached rest
rooms. After dinner, we were lulled to sleep by
chirping insects outside our tent.
 Gompa
on a rocky ridge: After a good night's sleep,
we drove back to Leh. En route we stopped to visit the
Diskit Gompa. This is the oldest and
largest Gompa in the Nubra region. The statue
of Maitreya Buddha is majestically seated on the ridge
of a mountain that overlooks the valley below.
Steps lead to the entrance of the Gompa, which
pass through the monks' living quarters.
Dashing through the snow: The cloudy
weather that morning was in stark contrast to the sunny
skies that smiled the day before. As we drove along
the winding roads, we spotted fresh snow on rocks. Delighted
at seeing snow at such close quarters, we got out of
our cars to play. As we finished our lunch of momos,
we saw drops of water on the windshield. To our delight,
we were told that they were snowflakes. We stepped out
to feel the soft flakes of snow, a novelty for seashore
dwellers like us. Continuing our drive through snow
flurries, we reached our hotel by dusk. We were scheduled
to visit the mystical Pangong Lake the next day.
Cost
- The cost for a camel safari is Rs150 per person
for 15 minutes.
- Camping in Nubra Valley would cost Rs3,000-4,000
per person, meals included.
Essentials and guidelines
- Remember to take sufficient warm clothing as the
temperature dips unexpectedly.
- A torch is essential with the high frequency of
power cuts.
- Carry necessary medication. The high altitude and
bumpy roads can make you sick.
- One can go to Zanskar instead of camping overnight
in Nubra Valley. It offers an exciting river rafting
experience. The cost is Rs2,200 per person.
Also read: Journey
to the mystical lake
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