''If there is a heaven on earth, it is here, it
is here, it is here,'' exclaimed Emperor Jahangir when
he saw Kashmir, and Swetha Amit agrees
wholeheartedly
Moving ahead from Sonamarg, we travelled to Gulmarg,
'the meadow of flowers'. A beautiful hillock area set
at an altitude of 2,653m, it is surrounded by fir trees
and snow-clad peaks. It was a long but interesting drive,
and we made a few stops.
Bowing down to the goddess: We first
stopped at the temple of Goddess Kheer Bhawani, a Hindu
pilgrimage centre second in importance after the Amarnath
cave. Situated in the middle of a pool of spring water,
the temple is built of marble and has a golden dome.
One of the unique features of the spring water is that
it changes colour. Black is considered a bad omen, foretelling
disaster.
Around the lake in 80 minutes: We
moved on to Wular Lake, one of the largest fresh water
lakes in Asia. The large lake looked intimidating. Unlike
the shikara ride on Dal lake, which was bustling with
tourists, this one was quiet. We rowed along enjoying
the mild afternoon sun and the rippling waters of the
lake. Not known to many tourists, the lake was a soothing
sight to the eyes. The lake reflected the surrounding
moutains and clouds in shades of blue. We learned that
the lake contributed to about 60 per cent of the fish
yield of Kashmir valley. It was also an important hydrographic
feature of Kashmir and acts as a flood reservoir. We
noticed ducks and some unique species of birds. As we
neared the shore, we tried our hand at rowing the shikara,
which turned out to be a fun but tedious task.
Exploring the paradise valley: We
rented fur coats to stay warm at an altitude of 13,000ft.
Walking along mountainous roads amid lush green pine
trees, we spotted purple lilies of the valley along
green patches highlighted by the evening sun. We went
by the army training school, where the army officers
and jawans underwent vigorous training sessions.
The elite sport: Gulmarg prides itself
on possessing one of the world's highest green golf
courses. It consists of an 18-hole course. We could
see why it was called as the 'Golfing Mecca of India.'
Christ in the vicinity: Our next stop
was the church and we were told that during winters
the the entire area was covered with snow and only the
church stands out. We climbed higher and got a panoramic
view of the valley and the base camps of the Indian
army.
The
gondola ride: One of the major attractions
of this beautiful town is the gondola or cable car ride,
the world's highest. The journey in the first phase
takes you from Gulmarg to Kongdori valley. At a height
of 2,600m (nearly 8,530ft), we got beautiful views of
Gulmarg. The second phase took us from Kongdori valley
to the upper regions of Kongdori mountain, at a height
of 4,200m (nearly 13,780ft). The cable car was capable
of conveying more than 600 people in an hour. We were
told that it acted as a lift to skiers who visited Gulmarg
between December to March. We got off at the top after
a 20-minute ride into snow.
Snowflakes, skiing and army jawans:
As we rode a sledge further up in the bone-biting cold,
we were thankful for our fur coats. From the top, we
got a breathtaking view of the Kashmir valley and the
snow-capped mountains of Nanga Parbat. We climbed further
up to near the Line of Control and expressed our appreciation
of the army jawans' valour and effort at keeping the
borders safe. We realised skiing was a difficult sport
while attempting to not fall over. After trying on our
own for a few minutes, we were helped by expert skiers.
Gulmarg can qualify as the land of winter sports. Half-a-day
in the snow and it was time to get back to the valley
and experience the gondola ride again.
Melting
ice: We next opted for a pony ride. It was
a pleasure to gallop in meadows where nature was at
its pristine best. We reached the base point where small
tents were serving hot tea and refreshments close to
waterfalls formed of melting ice. We sat there a while
to enjoy the serenity of the falls. Wild horses grazed
in the meadows and the sheep were being taken back home.
We saw the beauty of Gulmarg increase multifold as various
shades of colour ran across the landscape in the setting
sun.
How to reach Gulmarg
By road: Gulmarg is 47kms from Srinagar
and there are several buses and jeeps operating from
Srinagar.
Best time to visit
The best time for skiing in Gulmarg is between November
and February. March to September is also good to experience
the evergreen landscapes and enjoy a game of golf.
Things to do
- Gulmarg is ideal for skiing during winter, between
November and February. The ski gear and instructor
services can be hired.
- It's also popular for outdoor sports such as golf
and horse riding during spring and summer.
- Gulmarg is excellent for trekkers and trekking equipment
can be hired. The well-known trekking routes are Gulmarg-Khilanmarg-Apharwat-Alpathar;Gulmarg-Danwas-Tejjan-Tosha
Maidan and Gulmarg-Kantarmarg.
Cost
- A two-night stay in Gulmarg can cost anywhere between
Rs5,000-7,000.
- The cable car charges for both the phases, to and
fro, sum up to Rs800 per person.
- If one decides to opt for a sledge ride, it would
cost around Rs800 per person, to and fro.
- The skiing trial and ride would add to Rs750 per
person.
- The pony ride up to the fall would cost Rs350 per
person.
- The horse ride around the valley would cost Rs500
per person for a two-hour ride.
Pahalgam the Switzerland of Bollywood beckoned us next.
(See: Pahalgam:
The colour of paradise)
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